Washer and Dryer Pedestal Surround Tutorial


As promised, below are the step by step instructions on how to build a washer and dryer pedestal with surround.  Please ask any questions in the comments section below the post and I will be sure to answer as soon as I can!  Thank you and happy building!

Cut list

Quick tip: You can print this off and bring to your local home improvement store to have them cut the plywood for you, on their panel saw.  Be sure to call the store and ask if they have this capability though.

 **These are 3/4″ 4′ x 8′ sheets of plywood.cut-list1

Step 1

Drill pocket holes on the outsides of your sides.


Quick tip: If you do not have a pocket hole jig, don’t panic! Skip this step.

Step 2

Glue and attach the top to each side with 1 ¼” pocket hole screws.

*If you do not have a pocket hole jig, simply glue and screw from the top down into the side with 2” screws.



Step 3

Glue and attach middle shelves 18 ¼” apart with 2” screws from the top.


Congratulations!  You’ve made your pedestal!  Let’s build a surround for it next.

Step 4

Attach surround sides to pedestal with 1” wood screws.  Be sure to countersink the screw heads into the surface of the wood so they don’t stick out. You can attach the screws from the outside or from the inside of the pedestal sides.  It is completely up to you!


Step 5

Drill pocket holes on each end of the 1×3.  Glue and attach to sides with 1 ¼” pocket hole screws.


This is also the time to install the unit in its final position. If you have baseboards, you have 3 options:

  1. Take out some much needed aggression and rip it right off!  Crow bars and hammers are favorites of mine, as well as using a small scraper to gently pry the baseboard away from the wall. Also, if your baseboards have caulk in the gap between it and your wall, be sure to score it with a utility knife first.
  2. Find a piece of wood the same thickness as your baseboard and place it behind the 1×3. It will be sandwiched between the 1×3 and your wall, allowing for proper clearance.  Be sure to buy longer screws to accommodate the extra piece being added.
  3. Cut out the profile of your baseboard onto the bottoms of all your pieces, so that your surround and pedestal can be placed flushed against the wall, while still allowing your baseboard to remain intact.

If you plan to paint or stain your pedestal and surround, I recommend doing it before you install.

Once you have painted or stained, attach L brackets (or countertop brackets) to the sides flush with the top.

To install, drive 3” screws into the 1×3 into the studs in your wall. I also attached it to studs on the side too. My pedestal and surround are pushed back into a corner, so I have 2 walls to stabilize it.   A stud finder can help you locate studs, or you can knock on the wall and listen for sound differences.  The duller the sound, the more likely there is a stud.  I have drywall and this works about 60% of the time…………….and as I am writing this, I am realizing that I have so many holes in my walls because I missed the stud! You know you’ve got the building bug when a stud finder gets added to your Christmas list!

Once you’ve attached your unit to your wall, phone a friend.  You are going to be lifting the washer and dryer onto the pedestals and they are HEAVY! On second thought, phone 2 friends. I am not sugar coating how difficult it was to lift the washer (in particular) onto the pedestals, so try not to get discouraged during this part.  I may, or may not, have gotten the eye roll from my husband during this! hehe

I ended up having to use a jig saw to cut out an area for the dryer venting to run from the dryer, under the pedestal, and up into the vent duct.  You MAY need to do this too, just FYI.

Step 6

I also installed a water shut off access cover plate on the side where my washing machine was.  I can easily remove the cover and reach inside to shut off both the hot and cold water valves. It was around $10 at my local hardware store and was installed using caulk to stick it to the side.


Step 7

Screw 1” pan head screws into the L bracket and attach the top.  This will be a tight squeeze.


Step 8

Attach face frames (shown in red) with finish nails and glue.


Fill nail holes with wood putty (if you stained) or spackle (if you painted), touch up any paint (if you painted), and smile!  You did it! Stay tuned for the upper cabinet tutorial I am currently working on that matches this pedestal surround!



5 thoughts on “Washer and Dryer Pedestal Surround Tutorial

  1. Lisa Keller says:

    I was wondering on the stability of the pedestal part of this build. Has it held up and is sturdy enough for all the vibrations of the the washer and dryer? I love your design and so want to do this.


    • designjenny says:

      The pedestal is holding up remarkably well! It is scary when it has to hold so much weight! When designing the pedestal part, I purposely divided into 3 sections to allow the middle dividers to act as supports under the machines. I’ve seen designs that only have 2 sections under the pedestal and that made me nervous with how heavy my washing machine is. Hope this helps!


  2. Pamela T. says:

    Did you find that your counter top and cabinets were still user friendly or did the pedestals make them too high? I LOVE how this looks!


    • designjenny says:

      The user friendliness of the pedestals will definitely be based on preference. What I have learned is that if you prefer folding clothes on a work surface, the counter will be too high for that. I fold clothes in my arms then place the folded clothing in a stack, so the counter height is just fine. The pedestals do make it easier on your back for loading and unloading and the dirty clothes have a place to hide. The cabinet height is a bit high though I will say. We have been using the basket storage to keep our everyday detergent and the cabinets themselves for extra storage. I hope that answers your question!

      Liked by 1 person

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